Out on the fringes of Europe, nearly as far as you can go southwest and still be in Europe - without falling off into the Atlantic - Lisbon is often overlooked among those who presume to rank the best European cities. Yes, it lacks the iconic landmarks; its cuisine and wine are often considered second fiddle; and it just doesn't have that cool pizzazz factor, like a Paris, Rome or Berlin.
And I say in response to that, thankfully! It has been since the mid-70s that I have been coming to Lisbon. Truly one of its loveliest qualities is the otherwise incomprehensible relative scarcity of tourists. It's one of the best features of the place. Though, I guess, an almost perfect climate helps, too.
It is the most crime-free capital city in Europe. And that only further heightens its pleasure as one of the great walker's towns. And this is despite the winding, hilly streets, with their constantly, unexpected, stunning sea vistas around every next corner.
The food may not have the cache of Greek, Italian or French, but don't be fooled by mere reputation: Portuguese fare is delicious. And Lisbon is the place to try it! Sea food lovers in particular will find themselves in paradise. As to the wine, Portuguese reputation has suffered due to a long tradition of the exported stuff often being below the standards of the rest of Europe. The wine you'll get in even the tiniest, sawdust on the floor, wine bar joint, in some little corner off from the train station, will not disappoint. And don't even get me started on the Port. Have you ever had white port? The coffee is fantastic, too, by the way. Lisbon should be famous for its cafes!
For those overly concerned about such matters, fret not, Lisbon is well appointed with all the standard old European amenities: the cathedrals, museums, galleries, grand squares and stunning architecture. And, if you want to hit the beach, a hop-skip-and-a-jump south brings you to Costa da Caparica, where you'll find no less than nineteen ruggedly beautiful, sandy beaches. A quaint little railway travels their length, dropping sun worshipers at the beach of their choice. (Try doing that in Vienna or Paris.)
But, while Lisbon is certainly a wonderful place to visit, I especially urge it upon those who can manage longer stays. The professional sabbatical, the longer vacation when you're inspired to stay put and get to know the rhythms of a place, an ex-pat life, or if you want to write your great novel, when you need an inspirational respite, I'd say go to Lisbon.
It certainly is no longer the deal it was when I first started going, back in the 70s. And the misguided Euro adoption has caused inflation all across Europe. However, now, as it was back then, compared to the rest of the European capitals, Lisbon is surprisingly affordable.
If you wanted to live or make an extended stay in Lisbon, it is important to know the neighborhoods, so you can choose the one best suited to your needs and moods. Here are a few of my favorite.
The best place to start is my personal favorite, Alfama. It is the geographic and architectural legacy of the original fishing village from which Lisbon grew. That village sensibility remains and is felt everywhere in the neighborhood, amid its charming, winding medieval streets, with the castle constantly looming behind and the grand vistas over the deep blue sea. The housing stock shows the wear of time, no doubt. There are though increasing numbers of lovely renovations becoming available, and nowhere in town will you get a better deal on them than in Alfama.
If Alfama's largely family oriented atmosphere is too sedate for you, perhaps you'd be more into the party-hardy lifestyle of the bohemian Bairro Alto. Brimming with characters with character, wonderful restaurants, divine wine bars, and hopping dance clubs, Bairro Alto is the go-to spot for all manner of Lisbon night life. It's an exciting area to be and to live. It certainly, though, isn't for everyone. Say, for instance, you're one of those people who actually can't sleep through thumping dance music or throngs of merrymakers. Still, if you enjoy the vibe, a good compromise might be to look for something in the Bica and Santa Catarina neighborhoods. They're still real close, have the feel of Bairro Alto, but are considerably quieter at night. They're located just down the hill a ways.
Further north, but still conveniently located, is Principe Real. Not that long ago, this area was renown pretty much exclusively for being the gay and antiques neighborhood. No longer, though: it has rapidly transformed into a hip locale for young professionals. Be forewarned, the rental prices are on the higher side. For those who enjoy it, though, this is a tranquil location, full of lush gardens and charming mansions.
Again, the prices can be a bit high, but a great little out of the way spot is Santos. Located right along the riverside, it has become a bit of a design hub in Lisbon. Otherwise, it is a peaceful residential area with good quality housing.
So there you have some quiet choices and some happening ones. You have to decide which better suits you. Whatever your preference, though, Lisbon has it. And I can't urge you enough, if you have the chance, don't miss out on what is still one of the most affordable and beautiful gems among the best European cities.
And I say in response to that, thankfully! It has been since the mid-70s that I have been coming to Lisbon. Truly one of its loveliest qualities is the otherwise incomprehensible relative scarcity of tourists. It's one of the best features of the place. Though, I guess, an almost perfect climate helps, too.
It is the most crime-free capital city in Europe. And that only further heightens its pleasure as one of the great walker's towns. And this is despite the winding, hilly streets, with their constantly, unexpected, stunning sea vistas around every next corner.
The food may not have the cache of Greek, Italian or French, but don't be fooled by mere reputation: Portuguese fare is delicious. And Lisbon is the place to try it! Sea food lovers in particular will find themselves in paradise. As to the wine, Portuguese reputation has suffered due to a long tradition of the exported stuff often being below the standards of the rest of Europe. The wine you'll get in even the tiniest, sawdust on the floor, wine bar joint, in some little corner off from the train station, will not disappoint. And don't even get me started on the Port. Have you ever had white port? The coffee is fantastic, too, by the way. Lisbon should be famous for its cafes!
For those overly concerned about such matters, fret not, Lisbon is well appointed with all the standard old European amenities: the cathedrals, museums, galleries, grand squares and stunning architecture. And, if you want to hit the beach, a hop-skip-and-a-jump south brings you to Costa da Caparica, where you'll find no less than nineteen ruggedly beautiful, sandy beaches. A quaint little railway travels their length, dropping sun worshipers at the beach of their choice. (Try doing that in Vienna or Paris.)
But, while Lisbon is certainly a wonderful place to visit, I especially urge it upon those who can manage longer stays. The professional sabbatical, the longer vacation when you're inspired to stay put and get to know the rhythms of a place, an ex-pat life, or if you want to write your great novel, when you need an inspirational respite, I'd say go to Lisbon.
It certainly is no longer the deal it was when I first started going, back in the 70s. And the misguided Euro adoption has caused inflation all across Europe. However, now, as it was back then, compared to the rest of the European capitals, Lisbon is surprisingly affordable.
If you wanted to live or make an extended stay in Lisbon, it is important to know the neighborhoods, so you can choose the one best suited to your needs and moods. Here are a few of my favorite.
The best place to start is my personal favorite, Alfama. It is the geographic and architectural legacy of the original fishing village from which Lisbon grew. That village sensibility remains and is felt everywhere in the neighborhood, amid its charming, winding medieval streets, with the castle constantly looming behind and the grand vistas over the deep blue sea. The housing stock shows the wear of time, no doubt. There are though increasing numbers of lovely renovations becoming available, and nowhere in town will you get a better deal on them than in Alfama.
If Alfama's largely family oriented atmosphere is too sedate for you, perhaps you'd be more into the party-hardy lifestyle of the bohemian Bairro Alto. Brimming with characters with character, wonderful restaurants, divine wine bars, and hopping dance clubs, Bairro Alto is the go-to spot for all manner of Lisbon night life. It's an exciting area to be and to live. It certainly, though, isn't for everyone. Say, for instance, you're one of those people who actually can't sleep through thumping dance music or throngs of merrymakers. Still, if you enjoy the vibe, a good compromise might be to look for something in the Bica and Santa Catarina neighborhoods. They're still real close, have the feel of Bairro Alto, but are considerably quieter at night. They're located just down the hill a ways.
Further north, but still conveniently located, is Principe Real. Not that long ago, this area was renown pretty much exclusively for being the gay and antiques neighborhood. No longer, though: it has rapidly transformed into a hip locale for young professionals. Be forewarned, the rental prices are on the higher side. For those who enjoy it, though, this is a tranquil location, full of lush gardens and charming mansions.
Again, the prices can be a bit high, but a great little out of the way spot is Santos. Located right along the riverside, it has become a bit of a design hub in Lisbon. Otherwise, it is a peaceful residential area with good quality housing.
So there you have some quiet choices and some happening ones. You have to decide which better suits you. Whatever your preference, though, Lisbon has it. And I can't urge you enough, if you have the chance, don't miss out on what is still one of the most affordable and beautiful gems among the best European cities.
About the Author:
For all the latest scoop on the urban must-see list of Europe, we've got the dope at the Best European Cities site. Definitely read Mitchell Jones insightful piece on the top cities to visit in Eastern Europe .
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